“Praça do Comércio reminds us that every city has a gateway where past and present shake hands.” – Ed Lehming

Here’s another image from my exploration of Lisbon last September. As we walked toward the river along Rua Augusta, the main commercial street, we passed through the Rua Augusta Arch, which dominates the base of the avenue. Built to commemorate the city’s reconstruction after the devastating 1755 earthquake, which destroyed much of Lisbon, it is massive and impossible to miss. Passing through the gates and the throngs of people, we emerged into the large Praça do Comércio. It’s an expansive square fronting the Tagus River, surrounded by stately buildings.

At the centre of the square—and fortunately not surrounded by people when I was there—is the equestrian statue of King José I, inaugurated in 1775 as well. This bronze monument was the first monumental statue dedicated to a king in Lisbon. Interestingly, at the base of the horse’s feet are snakes, symbolizing the king crushing his enemies. The square was named Praça do Comércio, the Square of Commerce, to reflect its new role in Lisbon’s economy. The symmetrical buildings around it once housed government offices regulating customs and port activities.

For centuries, Portugal’s wealth moved through this plaza and its adjoining port. More than a transportation crossroads, it became the commercial heart of the city, directing movement west toward Belém and south across the Tagus. The northern trams link Lisbon to its historic district, while the southern ferries carry passengers over the river, continuing the square’s long tradition as a gateway of trade and travel.

For me—as is often the case—standing in a place like this brings visions of what may have happened in the past. A great deal unfolded here, including, as I discovered while studying the history of the square, the assassination in 1908 of the last king of Portugal. He was shot and killed as his family’s carriage made its way across the square. The Portuguese monarchy ended a short two years thereafter.

iPhone 14 Pro Max
Main Camera — 24 mm
1/5385 sec, ƒ/1.78 ISO 125