One of the most fascinating things about Lisbon is how each neighbourhood has its own distinct character. Cais do Sodré had a gritty yet vibrant energy. The streets were lined with shops and cafés, but never felt crowded. The area moved at its own pace and, to me, felt more authentic than the more tourist-focused districts of Baixa and Chiado nearby.

Here, you’re slightly off the beaten path, though not by much. It was the perfect place for us to slow down and enjoy a more relaxed side of the city. The inevitable souvenir shops were still present, but they were interspersed with local businesses that gave the neighbourhood its character.

We discovered a wonderful restaurant called Tosca, where beautifully plated dishes were served in a warm and playfully elegant atmosphere.

Our hostess told us that this area was once Lisbon’s red-light district, a common destination for sailors on shore leave. As I looked around the street, I could easily imagine what it might have been like during those days.

Directly across from the restaurant is Praça do Sodré, a lovely square and an ideal place to sit, take in the neighbourhood, and watch the Prazeres 25 tram glide by without the usual hustle and bustle.

Yet only steps away lies the famous Pink Street, lined with bars and restaurants, while in the opposite direction you’ll find the Time Out Market, with its seemingly endless collection of gourmet food stalls. A quieter, more local atmosphere was never far from some of Lisbon’s most popular attractions.

iPhone 17 Pro Max
Main Camera — 21 mm
1/700 sec, ƒ/2.2 ISO 20